A section from the journey
The Senses in Worship
Worship here is not silent and still. It fills the senses. There is the sight of lamps and the carved deity, the sound of bells and chant, the scent of incense and flowers, the taste of blessed food, the touch of cool stone. And the temple is far more than a shrine. It is the beating heart of the whole town, where the deity is woken each day and carried out at festivals to meet the people.
We have walked into the temple, to its womb and its mountain. We have learned the loving care of puja. Now let us simply stand inside and ask: what is it like to be here? What does worship feel like?
And here is something that surprises many people. Worship in this tradition is not silent and still. It is not only a quiet of the mind. It is alive. It fills the whole body. Every sense you have is given to the divine. Let us go through them, one by one.
First, the eyes. We have already met this gift: darshan, the seeing of and being seen by the deity. The eyes are given the form of the carved image, rich with colour and ornament, and the small flames of lamps waved in slow circles before it, so the dark sanctum glows.
Then the ears. The temple rings with sound. Deep bells, and the long low note of the conch-horn, and drums, and the chant of sacred words rising and falling. The sound is not a background to worship. It is worship. It wakes the heart and tells you that you have come into a holy place.
Then the nose. The air is thick and sweet with incense, curling up in pale threads. There are heaps of fresh flowers, garlands of them, their scent everywhere. Smell, which reaches so deep into memory, ties the divine to something you can almost taste on the air.
Then the tongue. Here returns a gift we have met before: , the blessed food. A sweet, a little fruit, a few grains, given back from the deity and placed in your open hands. You taste the divine kindness. Worship becomes, quite literally, something you carry home inside you.
And then touch. Bare feet on cool stone worn smooth by ages of other feet. A dab of red on the brow, or a smear of soft grey ash. The brush of a garland. The whole body takes part. Nothing of you is left outside. You worship with all that you are.
Now lift your eyes from the worship to the place around it, for the temple is far more than a shrine. In this age it is the beating heart of the whole town. It is the largest and grandest building anyone has ever seen. Around it gather the artisans, the musicians, the dancers, the teachers, the keepers of records.
Kings and merchants give the temple gifts of land and gold. In turn it feeds and employs the town, and even lends and stores like a treasury. Its walls are carved with the deeds of the people, so that to read a temple wall is to read the town's own life. The temple is faith and work and gathering, all in one place.
And the deity does not stay shut away. Each morning it is woken like a king. And at the great festivals, a special image, often a fine bronze, is lifted up and carried out through the streets in procession. Then the whole town, rich and poor alike, those who may not enter the inner shrine and those who may, can stand in the road and take darshan as the lord goes by.
So this is how the temple age gathers up the whole long story. The vast One of the sages, drawn near in an image, served with loving puja, housed in a cosmos of stone, met with every sense, and carried out into the streets to bless an entire people. Faith here is not far away. It is as close as the food on your tongue and the bell in your ears.
Think of a moment that moved your whole being at once, where you saw and heard and smelled and felt something all together, and it stayed with you for years. Worship here was made to be just such a moment. When did you last let your whole body, and not only your thoughts, take part in something sacred?
We close our walk through the temple by asking what it is like to be there. And the answer is that worship in this tradition is for the whole body. It is not silent and still and only of the mind. It floods every sense at once. The eyes are given the flame of waved lamps and the form of the carved deity, in the act of darshan we have already met. The ears are given bells, conch-horns, drums, and the chant of sacred words. The nose is given incense and the heaped sweetness of flowers. The tongue is given the blessed food, the prasada, that comes back from the deity. The hands touch cool stone and warm ash. Worship is something you do with all of yourself. And the temple where this happens is no quiet corner. In this age it is the living heart of the whole town, its largest building, its grandest workshop, its centre of music and learning and gathering. The deity is woken each morning like a king, and at the great festivals is carried out into the streets so that everyone, high and low, may have a share of the divine.
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